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Sunday, December 14, 2003 I spent some time in Beijing last weekend. It was only three days, not even close to long enough, but at least I got to go. I've been to Beijing a few times now and the famed Silk Market has always eluded me. Usually short on time, and sometimes cash, I just never made it. I had heard tales from friends about cheap knock off North Face gear, Versace handbags (if I was into that kind of thing, I'd have been more excited), and just stories of cheap clothes in general. I made it a priority to go this time, and I was sorely and utterly dissapointed. I cannot even attempt to relate the completion of my dissapointment. There were North Face backpacks and coats, the much talked about Versace handbags, and many other American label clothing good. Tommy Hilfiger was well represented as was Polo. The prices were exhorbirant, and bargaining rarely yielded a desireable result. I spotted a pair of gloves I liked, I needed some too. I walked up to the vendor and inquired about the price. "San bai". Three hundred for a pair of thin leather gloves! You can imagine my shock. "Good leather", was what he told me. I offered a more reasonable price and he told me, "Bye bye". At this retort I was utterly dumbfounded, I couldn't believe his triteness. I walked away feeling immensely let down and with frozen hands. The Silk Market turned out to be no more than one little street that more resembled an alley. Upon coming to the end of it, I doubled back and headed for the entrance/exit. Passing the same screaming vendors I had no less than five minutes before, I wanted nothing more than to get the hell out of there. After pushing through the crowds of foreigners and money hungry hawkers, I was finally out into the street. I could breathe, or so I though. I was immediately accosted by a silk scarf salesman who brought with him the relentless style of selling that is seen in the more touristy places of China. Not only is it obtrusive, but it's exhausting. I made the mistake of slowing my pace and looking at what he had to sell. This seemed to only encourage him, I didn't want what he was selling, but I'm too polite to just blatantly ignore anyone. No sooner had I slowed my pace a tad then another salesman sauntered up and pushed his way into my face. He was selling Mao Zedong lighters that when the lid is opened play the song "The East is Red"; a famous tune proclaiming the excellence of the Chinese Communist Party. Now, I had seen these lighters and I wanted one. I told him as much and we entered a bargaining dialogue. He wanted way too much for the lighter. I told him a lower price that I thought was reasonable, he wouldn't budge and I decided I didn't want the lighter and started to move away. He countered with a new price, and I then made my mistake. I said I'd purchase two (thinking of Christmas and an uncle who would appreciate the momento) for one low price. He said okay. I didn't have the correct change and gave him a bill larger than the price we agreed upon expecting some change. At this point he grabs an extra lighter, bringing the total to three, and says he'll give me the extra one for the change he was supposed to give me. I didn't want this. At this point enter about three children who'se mother had prompted them to beg for money. Picture the scene. I had three hungry, dirty children begging in a loud voice as I'm trying to square up with this goddamned inept lighter salesman. My girlfriend ended up giving the begging children a sucker that she had already started eating and I ended up taking the third lighter sans my change. I was beside myself. I had just gotten off a train about 6 hours before, hadn't slept in 18 hours or so, and hadn't eaten in that time either. I walked away with a dazed mind and horrible Silk Market experience.
posted by Centurion, 12:03 | link | comments (1)
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